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Reply To: Looking for a port aft fairlead for my Nauticat 33 Mk2 1978

Yachting Home Forums All things Technical Suppliers Looking for a port aft fairlead for my Nauticat 33 Mk2 1978 Reply To: Looking for a port aft fairlead for my Nauticat 33 Mk2 1978

Simon Williams


I did manage to get additional fairleads for my 1979 NC33 Mk2 from Sitala about 2 years before they ceased trading. There were no brand marks on them and they didn’t divulge who the OEM was, but I recall finding some of a similar design on a Danish website. I have refitted the toe-rails forward and aft on my boat using iroko as the inner core and teak as the outer facing in both cases. I discovered the inner core of the forward toe rails was made of pitch pine that in many sections had begun to rot away and I was faced with no real choice but to repair by replacement. It is a labour of love, and of course I ended up removing, repositioning and refitting all the fairleads. Looking at your images I think you still have the original deck, the toe rails are laid directly onto the teak planks and some of the screws from these and the fairleads are likely to have gone through the caulking, but this doesn’t cause any issues unless as happened with my boat I discovered someone in her 40 year history had drilled all the way through the deck and the screws were no longer watertight. When I removed sections of the after deck under the toe-rail from my boat I found them to be sound even if they can be very wet; once dry the timber was still good. The fairleads are actually very easy to remove and site elsewhere; the toe-rail is simply cut down to the level of the deck to accommodate the fairlead. The only issue you may encounter is that your toe-rails have been over sanded in the intervening years and fairlead may need some timber shims added under the arms. I cut the toe-rail using a gentleman’s hand saw; a large flat ended screwdriver will be needed to gently lever it up and break the bond of the sealant used to bond it to the deck. The section you remove will probably fit into the gap left when you remove the fairlead on the other side and a couple screws and some judicious caulking will make a good enough repair to make it good. I have not found any issues with left or right handedness and I have moved/ re-sited 12 in total, my only advice is that the original design secures the fairlead to the toe-rail and through to the sub-deck, this gives it immense strength, which is probably why Sitala used them to hold these 10 ton boats in a blow. The longer screws in the “arms” also secure the toe-rail to the sub-deck at the end of what will be a cut section if you have to go with a different design it will be worth securing the ends of the timber with 50mm screws recessed and plugged as the guard rail stanchions effectively lever against the toe-rail. The stanchions are actually only secured with 25mm screws, but they are clearly strong enough as they have stood the test of time.